Day 4 - Arriving in Uruguay

 We woke up early in preparation for our 7 am departure by Uber to go to the Colonia Ferry Terminal in downtown Buenos Aires.  The info said that 9 am was the latest time to check in for our 10:30 ferry to Uruguay.  Our Uber ride was scary going through the intense traffic needing a brake job.  We arrived safely at 7:50am only to discover that 9 am was the earliest we could check in.  Thank I goodness Bob had exactly the right amount to pesos to buy two coffees.  We checked in at 9 am and went through the door to find an immigration station on. The other side.  We left Argentina and entered Uruguay going from one station to another.  We went to a waiting room upstairs.  At first it wasn’t crowded but it became really crowded with a couple of hundred people, almost all of them quite young.  When people started lining up, we went to the closest door only to find we were at the end of the line and facing the wrong way.  But it all turned out fine.  When we got onto the ferry, we were shunted off to an air conditioned cabin with airplane like seats.  The journey took 70 minutes.  We arrived and had to put our luggage through a scanner then got onto a huge big double decker bus for a 3 hour ride from Colonia, where the ferry landed, to Montevideo.  The ride went by quickly.  I was excited to see the evident birds on our journey.  The only ones I could name were white pelicans.   As we came into Montevideo, I could see it is really a different country here.  I would describe Buenos Aires as shabby and frantic.  While Montevideo seemed calm.  The first thing we noticed is there is no trash around.  And the buildings were kept up, definitely not shabby.  We took a taxi to our hotel which is right on the waterfront and very nice.  After stowing our luggage in our room, we headed off to a nearby food court in a fancy shopping mall to get a bite to eat.  From there we walked to the shore and walked along the beach.  I was entranced picking up beach glass.  I haven’t seen a beach with so much beach in a long time.  Bob was entranced by the radio controlled gliders.  Already we have encountered three Uruguayans who have spoken English to us.  We met with our group to go out to a celebratory dinner tonight.  The restaurant was quite upscale and named The Famous Grouse.  Alvaro said it really is a tinamou, not a grouse.  We had a generous meal with tannat wine ( very acidic red).  Returning back, Bob got his scope out and I repacked once again preparing for our first day.  Rain is predicted and Alvaro, our guide, said “we’ll just deal with it.”  I can’t wait.  I’m so happy to be with my people and to start this special trip in Uruguay.

                                

Day 3 - Touring Buenos Aires

 This morning our friends, Monica and Daniel, picked us up at 10:45 so we had time for a leisurely breakfast.  The typical breakfast here has no fruit and is very starchy with croissants and ham and cheese sandwiches.  The first place they took us to was The University of San Martin where Daniel has worked since its beginning in 1995. It was built in an old rundown rail yard which is very close to all sorts of scientific establishments.  The circular Roundhouse was kept and repurposed for classrooms and the library.  It was touching to see how Daniel was so warmly greeted by many of those who work at the University.  We walked around, looking at the buildings, hearing stories of the beginnings.  For example, the huge Biotechnology building was built in 2007 and Daniel was the Vice President of the University and signed off on the project.  I enjoyed spotting some birds-a flock of green parrots, a yellow Goldfinch looking bird, a rusty ground bird acting like a blackbird.  It felt like a teaser of what’s to come.  From there we went along the beltway heading into the downtown area by the Rio de la Plata.  The river was muddy and wide and so vast we couldn’t see the other side.  Daniel said it is the widest river in the world!  I was impressed with the big green parks and the campuses of other Universities.  We arrived to the exclusive Palermo region of the city with its luxury apartments and many embassies.  The road was 12 lanes wide!   We parked in a shopping mall so I could find a pair of sunglasses to buy and walked from there to the Japanese Garden, a favorite place of Monica and Daniel’s granddaughters.  I enjoyed strolling on the graceful curving paths.  The birds there were origami.  From there we walked to the Art Museum and were delighted to learn the admission was half-price because it was Wednesday.  I was especially interested in the Frieda Kahlo exhibit.  (It was disappointing with only two of her paintings and a series of small black and white photos of her after her accident painting in bed.)  By now it was approaching 5 and we started our way back to the hotel.  I was impressed by the block long lines of people waiting to get on buses. The traffic was heavy, but then it always seems to be so here.  It took us 45 minutes just to drive back the 4 or 5 miles across the city to our hotel.  Tonight we went out to dinner with them to one of their favorite restaurants nearby our hotel.  It was a charming place, all decorated with old antiques of all kinds, a treadle Singer sewing machine, all manner of manual typewriters, and a wall of dishes.  The food was excellent and we never had a pause in our conversation.  We had three kinds of fresh fish, all different, Caprese salad and an arugula salad.  For dessert Bob chose a Don Pedro—vanilla ice cream in a glass flooded with Scotch whiskey/  Plus we shared a bottle of Argentinian white wine.  I feel fortunate to have had such a personal guided tour of special places here in Buenos Aires with our long-time friends.  We enjoyed our time here in Buenos Aires very much.  Now early we go off to the ferry and sail across the Rio de La Plata to Uruguay where our birding adventure will begin. 

Uruguay - Day 1 and 2

It’s finally happening!  We started our trip to Uruguay very early with a 5 AM pickup Monday morning to take us to the airport.  We have been planning this trip since 2019, but it got postponed over and over.  The Chile Mujeres, a group of 4 ladies that got to be friends on a birding trip to Chile 10 years ago dreamed this trip up.   All went smoothly at the airport and at 8 AM we left for Atlanta.  Both Bob and I were excited and the day was beautiful and clear.  We took lots of pictures out the window.  We had a long 5 hour lay-over in Atlanta but it went quickly.  The airport is huge actually the busiest in the world.  There is a fast very bumpy train called the “Plane Train” that goes between the 6 terminals.  We were hungry and we had time so we chose a Sushi Bar to get lunch.   I loved watching the people stream by in an endless flow.  I remember watching two very cared for dogs meet and greet each other.  After our late lunch we did laps, walking up and down by the gates.   Our flight to Buenos Aires left at 9 PM.  We had very comfortable seats.  The trip was uneventful, mostly pleasant as a 10 hour flight can be.  We got to Buenos Aires Tuesday morning.  The terminal was bustling and chaotic but in my numbed out state I watched it rather than reacted to it.  I was glad to get out of there.  It was a long 45 minute taxi ride to our hotel, a Days Inn.  It’s not like I imagined, not at all like an American one, rather it is a small charming Argentinian hotel.  We were exhausted.  We came to Argentina for a few days to visit Monica and Daniel diGregorio.  Monica came and greeted us.  Then when she left, we lay down and slept.

It’s summer down here and hot.  We were invited to dinner at Monica and Daniel’s home.  They picked us up.  There is terrible traffic here.  Around 3 million people live in Buenos Aires.  We had  delicious dinner and caught up with all they have been doing.  Today, they are going to show us around.  The overnight rain has cleared up and it promises to be a fine day.  

Preparations

 Since returning home from Michigan,  I feel like my time has been spent in preparation.  I came home earlier than Bob because I had agreed to give a talk to a group of Catholic women.  I imagined a group of 12 as I prepared the talk on Joy.  When I learned there might be 50 present, I found myself extremely nervous the day before and morning of the talk.  I was concerned the talk wouldn’t be right for these women.  But I didn’t need to worry, they loved the talk.  The group listened deeply and carefully and asked great questions afterwards.  I was so happy.  All the feedback I got was affirming.

Bob returned that afternoon and life began to return to normal.  Much as I complain about cooking, I do benefit from having someone to cook for.    We went to a concert, to church.  I worked in the garden here at home and at the Botanical Garden.  I began to pack for our upcoming big adventure - a three week birding trip to Uruguay.  It’s summer down there.  I’ve had piles of clothing and shoes on the bed in the guest room for a week and a half.  I’ve packed and unpacked my suitcase three times.  Each item has been carefully considered.  I don’t want to take too much.  There doesn’t seem to be a possibility of taking too little.  My list of things to get got bigger from a list Alvaro, our guide sent last week.  I had to get Dramamine because I learned we’re going on an ocean trip and my scopolamine patches are 10 years past expiration; a sink plug if I want to do laundry; medicines just in case.  So many little things that I might want:  a book to read on the long airplane ride, sleep medication for the airplane, my extra hearing aids in case my rechargeable ones fail.  Oh my goodness.  It’s all part of preparing for the  journey and exciting it is.  I just have a feeling it’s our last big overseas adventure together so I really want to enjoy every minute of it.  We know the group and we all get along.  We’ll only be 6 participants plus two guides and a driver.  Bob and I leave early Monday morning arriving in Buenos Aires the next morning.  We’re visiting old friends for a few days before we take the ferry across the Rio De Plata to Montevideo, capital of Uruguay where we will meet up with the others.  And if this wasn’t enough, I’m preaching on the Sunday before we leave.  So much preparation spiced by excitement and great joy.  

Not to forget, it’s Thanksgiving today.  Wishing all our dear family and friends a most Happy Thanksgiving.  As we sit down in so many different places, let us be mindful of our many blessings.  

It’s Been a Good Visit

 It’s been a good visit this fall to E. Lansing.  Winter is coming and it is time to go back home to Berkeley.  It seems like I’ve been here such a long time.  The season has changed and now the mornings and some days are pretty cold. The leaves have mostly all fallen.  I’ve brought out my long-underwear.  The first two weeks of our visit, Erik was here and it was a special treat to have him pop downstairs from his workspace to have a cup of coffee or lunch with us.  I remember a lovely walk we took one warm afternoon around the MSU campus.  I saw a very special deep bond that has developed between he and Erika as they sought each other out and often put their heads together with a special joke or comment.  We saw Erika play her clarinet in a couple of band concerts and in the marching band at the E. Lansing High School football games that just seemed to go on and on because they kept winning.  Tonight they’re in a state semi-final play-off.  We saw Sonja run in her last cross country race.  We had special family times at Greenfield Village for the Halloween special and a Saturday “hayride” and barbecue at the Peacock Family farms.  All these family activities are bittersweet as it’s the last time Erika will be with us.  The girls are growing up and becoming who they will be as adults.  For me, I had a couple of activities I plugged into:  a yoga class at the MAC and the Bible Study group at church.  I am very warmly welcomed back into that group.  I decided early on that this year I wouldn’t get down because I had nothing to do so I went off to the MAC often to walk the track and jog.  I do love those endorphins!  It seemed like there was something to do every day: walks with friends, a poetry reading and dinner out with friends among other things.  As always, Paul and Paula were very busy.  This year I was peaceful enough to cook for the family four nights in a row trying to help out this week.  My cooking isn’t as gourmet as Paula’s or Paul’s but I think it was timely and appreciated.  Our life here is interesting and fun and we fit into it like a glove.  On the art scene, Bob developed a new relationship with a local metal sculptor.  Yesterday both of us visited with him and he showed off his work in his yard and then we went on the MSU campus and saw a couple of his big sculptures there.  He is a very interesting open hearted person.  Bob visited a couple of times with a blacksmith friend he has.  Today Erika and I went to the annual fall Pottery Guild sale.  There is so much beautiful pottery all very reasonably priced.  All in all, it was a most wonderful visit for which I’m very grateful!

Football

 Football is really big in Michigan.  This past weekend, I went to two football games and  I don’t really like the game of football.  To me it’s a bunch of guys crashing into each other with occasional running and passing.  But this weekend, the football was really fun.  On Friday night we went to the E. Lansing High School game to watch Erika play her clarinet in the marching band.  They were great.  I am impressed at how much each musician has to learn—memorize the music and the steps of the marching.  This was the second play-off game for the high school team.  All in all, it was an exciting game and they did well winning 35-7 but what mattered was that our girl was having a good time playing music with her friends in the band.  

Saturday, I was invited to the MSU final home football game against Nebraska-a Big Ten league game.  I met Paula’s friends at Adams field at 10:30 where the marching band and flag girls started out by giving little performances for the gathered fans.  We were invited so we could watch their daughter who is a flag girl in her final home game.  It was fun having a focal point, something special to watch.  But it was the Sousa-phones, big silver belled tubas that wrap around the player’s body that really captivated me. Maybe it’s their shine or perhaps the deep mellow music, but they are the best!  We followed the band marching to the stadium, past multitudes of tailgater parties.  I saw so many Krispy Crème donuts, I lost count.  We made our way to our seats which were excellent, being just behind the band.  The Sousa-phones were only 8-10 rows in front of us and how I loved watching them stand and move about as they played their fight songs.  They were clearly the “macho” players of the band!  There was so much to see, so much happening I found it very hard to focus on the game.  There was a frisbee catching dog, Spartie, the mascot, the band, the cheerleaders and so much sound- the roar of the crowd and the music.  It was a total over the top extravaganza!!!  And the team even won!

Cookies

 It used to be that the granddaughters were excited to make cookies with Gramma.  I recall making cookies with Erika when she was four or five.  She’d pull over a chair to the counter and help out.  I’d measure, she’d dump the sugar and flour into the mixing bowl.  Later, she’d crack the eggs into the bowl.  We always made chocolate chip cookies.  They’re the best!!  Then there were the years that I made chocolate chip cookies with Sonja.  With her, it was a business proposition.  She’d make three or four batches of chocolate chip cookies.  I’d help her out.  And then she’d put them into her red wagon on football game days and go to all the street parties the college students had before the games and sell her cookies for $1 each.  All this is no more.  Now Erika is a master baker.  She is perfecting making French macarons (the ones that cost $2-$3 each at Whole Foods).  Since we’ve been here, she’s made two batches.  The first were chocolate filled with peanut butter ganache and with chocolate dribbled over the top.  They were so rich and delicious.  I ate only a half a one each day, making the three we were given last longer.  Her latest batch were matcha-Japanese green tea powder.  It’s great to have granddaughters who so excel at what they are interested in and for both Sonja and Erika baking is interesting.